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--- 3dprinting:lulzbot [2016-06-06 03:52]
xro
+++ 3dprinting:lulzbot [2020-09-02 11:09] (current)
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@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-======= Lulzbot Taz4 =======
+====== Lulzbot Taz4 ======
 D Drucker der derzeit im Raum ist und super cool und verwendbar: Lulzbot TAZ4
 ==== Manual ====
-[[https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/4.0/documentation/2014Q2/manual/TAZ_4_Manual.pdf | RTFM :-) ]]
+[[https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/4.0/documentation/2014Q2/manual/TAZ_4_Manual.pdf|RTFM :-) ]]
+====== Pre-Print Checks ======
+<WRAP center round help 60%>
+  - Is the printbed level?
+      * If not –> [[#printbed_leveling|Printbed Leveling]]
+  - Is the surface clean?
+      * If not –> Clean with alcohol/spirit/glass cleaner
+  - Is the filament dustfree? If not –> Clean with pressured air.
+      * Make sure dust does NOT get into the extruder.
+      * Print and deploy a [[https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=filament+cleaner|Filament Cleaner]] if not present
+  - Is the filmanet entangled? –> disentangle.
+  - Load correct material profile in Cura.
+      * If in doubt use "Fast" –> see [[materials|Materials]]
+  - Are you printing Nylon?
+      * Prep with Glue Stick. Clean/Remove with Water afterwards.
+  - Need to change filament?
+      * Check for difference in extrusion temperature and [[#changing_filaments|follow guide]]
+</WRAP>
+====== monthly Maintenance ======
+[[https://www.lulzbot.com/maintaining-your-3d-printer|Lulzbot: Maintaing your 3D printer]]
+  * Verify that both Z-rods turn equally smoohtly. Test by first disconnecting motors. Check left/front Z-axis-leadscrew is exactly 90* to rod. If off by 0.1°, then that Z-rod turns less well. Loosen screws.
+  * Verify that X-axis sledge is level, aka Z-distance on both rods is identical to Z-axis-motors
+  * Verify that there is no tension between Z-axis rods. (i.e. because X-rods have been fixed too tight. Don't need to be fixed at all, can remain loose.
+  * Check belt tension.
+      * a bit loose is just right
+  * Wipe down smooth rods with clean cloth.
+  * Lightly lubricate and clean the threaded rods with **silicone based**  grease. DO NOT use oil or spray. (ask xro for teflon grease)
+  * Use compressed air to blow out the fan/control box while powered down.
+  * Verify that any frame and motor screws are tight.
 ====== Tipps and Caveats ======
+Jemand hat Ocotoprint installiert und den Lulzbot unter http://3d-lulzbot.realraum.at/ erreichbar gemacht.
 [[https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=1709|Guide to Obtaining Great Prints]]
 [[https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/gN_W4GieQwk/JnULTgC_sIQJ|Avoid AirPrints, Don't increase temperature above settings]]
+[[https://ohai.lulzbot.com/|Lulzbot Open Hardware Assembly Instructions]]
+==== Printbed Leveling ====
+  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/content/taz-bed-leveling|Lulzbot TAZ Bed Leveling Guide]]
+  * [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdB8jbXFfns|Youtube: How to level the bed on a LulzBot TAZ ]]
+Basic Procedure:
+  - Home Z Axis
+  - Make sure extruder does NOT touch print surface
+  - Adjust corner spring screw or z-axis endstop until a piece of 80g paper slides just between extruder and print surface
+  - Leave Paper on print surface while moving extruder to protect surface and see when print-head touches/moves paper
+  - Move extruder to all four courners. Adjust corner spring screws accordingly
+  - Repeat a second time
+  - Move extruder to center and check again. Our Printbed is probably slightly curved so make sure the extruder DOES NOT touch the printing surface in the center.
+==== Changing Filaments ====
+**Use Cleaning Filament **  when changing to a filament with a different extrusion temperature.
+Otherwise lower-temp filament will charcoal inside the hotend at higher temperatures which can obsctruct the hot-end and create back-pressure and can be almost impossible to clean out.
+  - Heat to temperature of current filament
+  - Cut filament cleanly near extruder
+  - Pull out rest of filament
+  - Insert cleaning filament until only cleaning filament comes out of extruder
+  - Lower/Raise temperature to new filament temperature
+  - Insert new filament until no more cleaning filament comes out of extruder
+  - Fixate new filament, don't tighten screws too much, just use enough force so that extruder has grip on filament.
 ==== Heatbed too cold ====
@@ Line 29: / Line 98: @@
   * Check your model in the layer view of Cura.
   * Wall thickness should be a multiple of the nozzle size.
   * Try a finer profile.
@@ Line 41: / Line 110: @@
 If you are printing thing walls for cookie cutters, make sure your wall is thick enough to be printed. You can check in cura in the layers-view.
+==== Changing the Nozzle ====
+Current Nozzle Size is 0.5 (self-drilled). It's fast and accurate. Don't change it if in doubt.
+<del>We also have a 0.35 Nozzle. You will only need it for very fine prints.</del>
+**Warning**  beware of youtube videos that show nozzle change at room temperature. read [[https://www.lulzbot.com/content/taz-user-manual-updates-and-errata|Lulzbot Errata]]
+Procedure:
+  - Heat extruder to 160°C.
+      * Removing the nozzle with the hot end cold, with the presence of plastic on the threads can potentially damage the nozzle threads/threaded extension
+  - Unscrew the nozzle.
+      * Hold the extruder with a second wrench.
+      * Don't damage the wires or heating element.
+      * Don't touch bare wires with metal.
+      * Don't rotate the extruder.
+  - Install new nozzle
+      * thread the new nozzle slightly onto the threaded extension for **only one thread**
+      * Set the hot end temperature to 160◦C. Once the hot end has reached 160◦C finish installing the nozzle.
+      * Take extreme caution when handling the hot end when at high temperatures. Use leather gloves.
 ====== Materials ======
-<WRAP noprint><html><div style="float:right;margin-left:1ex;margin-bottom:1ex;text-align:center;"></html> {{ :3dprinting:taz4_printing_nylon.jpg?direct&400|}} \\ **Nylon Printing and Cleaning**<html></div></html></WRAP>
-** Correct profiles for each material can be found in: ** ''~/lulzbot/cura profiles/''
+<WRAP center round tip 60%> ** Correct profiles for each material can be found in: **  ''~/lulzbot/cura profiles for TAZ4/'' on Würfel or  [[https://github.com/realraum/3dprinting | on Github]]
+**Fast Profile**  is alsmost always the right choice, unless you intend to print small models with very fine structures.
+**Nozzle Size**  is 0.5. If you change to the 0.35 nozzle, change it back before you leave the printer.
+</WRAP>
+<WRAP center round alert 60%>
+**Use Cleaning Filament **  when changing to a filament with a different extrusion temperature.
+Otherwise lower-temp filament will charcoal inside the hotend at higher temperatures which can obsctruct the hot-end and create back-pressure and can be almost impossible to clean out.
+</WRAP>
+See [[materials|list of materials in realraum]]
-** Use Cleaning Filament ** when changing to a filament with a different extrusion temperature.
+==== Printing with nGen ====
-currently in realraum
+no special knowledge or care required
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/hips|HIPS 3mm white]]
-    * normal price
-    * nice material strength
-    * warps on large surface area
-    * needs raft for less than 4cm² ground surface
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/bridge-nylon|Bridge Nylon 3mm aka "bridge"]]
-    * normal price
-    * awesome material durability and strength
-    * needs glue and no printbed heat to stick. even so has tendency of getting loose
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/t-glase|t-glase clear 3mm]]
-    * more expensive
-    * translucent
-    * brittle
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/t-glase|t-glase red 3mm]]
-    * more expensive
-    * translucent
-    * brittle
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/pla-village|PLA deep blue 3mm]]
-    * normal price
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/stainless-steel-pla|Stainless Steel PLA (proto-pasta)]]
-    * really expensive (3 euro / meter). 10 times as expensive as HIPS per meter.
-    * brittle on small features but durable like PLA and heavy on bigger pieces
-    * sticks really well on printbed. do not use glue or can forget about getting your print off the bed
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/cleaning|Cleaning Filament]]
-    * use only for cleaning and when changing filaments
-  * [[https://ultimachine.com/collections/pla/products/pla-blue-translucent-3d-printer-filament|translucent PLA]]
-  * [[https://ultimachine.com/collections/pla/products/pla-yellow-translucent-3d-printer-filament|yellow translucent PLA]]
-  * [[https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/ngen|nGen Black von colorFabb]]
-    * only slightly more expensive
-    * supposedly least warping so good for precise prints
-    * supposedly sticks on printbed really well on its own
-See the [[https://www.lulzbot.com/sites/default/files/v2/LulzBot_3D_Printing_Filament_Guide.pdf | Lulzbot Filament Guide]] on print-settings for various materials.
+==== Printing with HIPS/PLA/ABS ====
-See also the [[https://www.lulzbot.com/taz-cura-profiles | Lulzbot Cura Profiles Page ]]
+Hips, PLA and ABS like to warp to various degrees during the print due to cooling/heating expansion. Keep print at uniform temperature. i.e. encase printer.
 ==== Printing with Nylon ====
+<WRAP noprint> {{  :3dprinting:taz4_printing_nylon.jpg?direct&400}} \\ **Nylon Printing and Cleaning**</WRAP>
 Nylon does not stick to the print-bed. Not even with the heat turned on.
   - Use Glue-Stick on printbed beforehand. Glue-Stick is in black LulzBot Bag, Please store there again after use.
-  - <del>Do **NOT** heat the printbed. That just leads to the Glue drying out early and the print failing.</del> \\ you can heat the printbed normally. With the new PET surface, Bridge Nylon steaks really well on a heated and glued printbed.
+  - <del>Do **NOT**  heat the printbed. That just leads to the Glue drying out early and the print failing.</del> \\ you can heat the printbed normally. With the new PET surface, Bridge Nylon steaks really well on a heated and glued printbed.
   - [[http://www.uhu-profishop.de/klebeberatung/klebstoff_entfernen.html|Glue-Stick-glue is water-solvable]]. Clean printbed by putting wet paper or wet wettex on it, let it soak a minute and whipe off with paper afterwards!. Repeat several times until print-bed completely clean.
@@ Line 104: / Line 181: @@
 When the print is finished, wait for the pad cools and then VERY carefully try not to damage the print surface!
-=== what can be printed ? ===
+==== what materials can be printed ? ====
-Everything with a filament diameter of 3mm (no less and no more) and extrusion temperature below 238°C that does not clog 0.35mm nozzles, like wood-,stainless-steel-,conducitve,"magnetic"-filament does.
+Everything with a filament diameter of 2.85mm-3mm (no less and no more) and extrusion temperature below 238°C that does not clog the nozzle , like wood-,stainless-steel-,conducitve,"magnetic"-filament does.
-== about 1.75mm filament ==
+=== can it print 1.75mm filament ===
-To print 1.75mm filament, a different [[https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/budaschnozzle-20-ptfe-tube-175mm-filament | PTFE-Tube]] would be needed. However, Lulzbot no longer manufactures or sells them. Conceivably they are easy to make yourself from aluminum or PTFE with a lathe.
-Seeing as their newest [[https://www.lulzbot.com/products/lulzbot-taz-single-extruder-tool-head-v2|Hexagon Hotend]] does not even mention the option of printing anything but 3mm filament, Lulzbot seems to have completely abandoned support for anything other than 3mm filament.
-Quote from Lulzbot-Sales 2015-09-25:
+**SORRY NO**
->  I do apologize, but we no longer carry those tubes. We have tested several filaments on our printers, and prefer the 3 mm size, as it much easier to work with.
 ====== Specs and Settings ======
-^Specs TAZ 4.1 -- Test Acceptance Record  ^^
+^Specs TAZ 4.1 – Test Acceptance Record  ^|
-|max build Area| 298mm x 275mm x 250mm|
+|max build Area|298mm x 275mm x 250mm|
 |Resolution:|>=0.1mm|
-|max Heatbed Temp|120°C |
+|max Heatbed Temp|120°C|
-|max build speed| 200mm/s|
+|max build speed|200mm/s|
 |Firmware|Marlin 2014-Q3|
-|Electronics| RAMBo 1.3L|
+|Electronics|RAMBo 1.3L|
-|Serial#| KT-PR0016-7986|
+|Serial#|KT-PR0016-7986|
-|steps/mm X | 100.5|
+|steps/mm X|100.5|
-|steps/mm Y | 100.5|
+|steps/mm Y|100.5|
-|steps/mm Z | 400|
+|steps/mm Z|400|
-|steps/mm E0| 842|
+|steps/mm E0|842|
 ===== Nozzle =====
-^ currently mounted Nozzle ^^
+^currently mounted Nozzle^|
-| Diameter | 0.35mm |
+|Diameter|0.5mm|
-|Max Temperature | 240°C (exceed at risk of **DAMAGE**) |
+|Max Temperature|240°C (exceed at risk of **DAMAGE**)|
-|Type | Budaschnozzle 2.0c|
+|Type|Budaschnozzle 2.0c|
+===== Known Problems =====
+  * Metal Platform holding print-bed is bent at all corners
+    * this makes leveling harder, as the bending angle is different in all four corners
+    * this means that the Z-offset (screw below Z-Endstop on controller-side) needs to be set lower that it originally was
+      * this means, when z-leveling, the extruder-header goes lower than it was designed for and sometimes makes hurtful noises
+  * Folien gehört getauscht
+    * muss aufgeheizt werden auf 60°C bevor neue Folien aufgeklebt wird, sonst bilden sich blasen
 ===== Current Firmware Settings =====
 -11-12
+^Value^Setting from LCD|
-^ Value ^ Setting from LCD ^
+|Autotemp|Off|
-| Autotemp | Off |
+|Autotemp Min|210|
-| Autotemp Min | 210 |
+|Autotemp Max|250|
-| Autotemp Max | 250 |
+|Autotemp Fact|0.10|
-| Autotemp Fact| 0.10 |
+|PID-P|6.00|
-| PID-P | 6.00 |
+|PID-I|0.30|
-| PID-I | 0.30 |
+|PID-D|125.00|
-| PID-D | 125.00|
+|PID-C|1|
-| PID-C | 1 |
+|Zoffset|0|
-| Zoffset | 0 |
+|Accel|500|
-| Accel | 500 |
+|Vxy-jerk|8|
-| Vxy-jerk | 8 |
+|vz-jerk|0.40|
-| vz-jerk | 0.40 |
+|ve-jerk|10|
-| ve-jerk | 10 |
+|vmax x|800|
-| vmax x | 800 |
+|vmax y|800|
-| vmax y | 800 |
+|vmax z|8|
-| vmax z | 8 |
+|vmax e|50|
-| vmax e | 50 |
+|amax x|9000|
-| amax x | 9000 |
+|amax y|9000|
-| amax y | 9000 |
+|amax z|100|
-| amax z | 100 |
+|amax e|10000|
-| amax e | 10000 |
+|a-retract|3000|
-| a-retract | 3000 |
+|xsteps/mm|100.50|
-| xsteps/mm | 100.50 |
+|ysteps/mm|100.50|
-| ysteps/mm | 100.50 |
+|zsteps/mm|1600|
-| zsteps/mm | 1600 |
+|Esteps/mm|842.0|
-| Esteps/mm | 842.0 |
+|E1steps/mm|800.00|
-| E1steps/mm | 800.00 |
 ===== HeatBed Autotune =====
 -11-12
-<file>
+<code file txt>
 bias: 41 d: 41 min: 64.86 max: 65.28
 Ku: 250.58 Tu: 18.09
@@ Line 180: / Line 265: @@
 Kd: 339.93
 PID Autotune finished! Put the Kp, Ki and Kd constants into Configuration.h
-</file>
+</code>
-[[https://www.lulzbot.com/fine-tune-your-marlin-pid-settings | Online Guide]]
+-09-15
+<code file txt>
+bias: 77 d: 77 min: 79.66 max: 80.36
+Ku: 276.82 Tu: 19.92
+Clasic PID
+Kp: 166.09
+Ki: 16.67
+Kd: 413.63
+PID Autotune finished! Put the Kp, Ki and Kd constants into Configuration.h
+</code>
+[[https://www.lulzbot.com/fine-tune-your-marlin-pid-settings|Online Guide]]
+-09-15 Settings used for quick print start (less differential swing compensation so firmware >= startcheck succeeds)
+<code file txt>
+M304 P166.0 I16.65 D390
+M500
+</code>
+\\

realraum Graz, Brockmanngasse 15, 8010 Graz, realraum - Verein für Technik in Kultur und Gesellschaft